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Day 10 - Cairo

Cairo
With some sadness we're leaving Luxor by noon, but we are convinced someday we'll be back! (..and indeed since 1995 we come back on a regular base...).
In Cairo we drive to Gizeh where we will stay for one week at the Mena House Oberoi Hotel, a beautiful remain of the British colonial period. From our room we see the impressive pyramids... We can't hardly wait to visit the pyramids. Our first contact is...in the dark, for the "Sound and Light Spectacle" at the feet of the Sphinx. We find it much better than the show in Karnak.
For an good overview of what can be visited in Cairo and Gizeh go to Official Egypt Web Site.
   

Day 15 - Cairo: Egyptian Museum - Khan el-Khalili Bazar

Egyptian Museum
Driving with Abdel Wahab Abu Basha, a driver we met outside the hotel, through the traffic rush of Cairo is quite an experience. One who didn't go through this chaos can't believe it! There aren't any rules...only the person who dares, will survive. A real pell-mell of cars, donkeys, camels, carts, bicycles, and some daredevils as we are (= pedestrians)...
But in spite of all that we arrive safe and sound at the Tahrir Square where we visit the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. The museum contains the world's greatest collection of Pharaonic art and artefacts, including the treasures of the tomb of Tutankhamun. We visited the first floor: Old and Middle Kingdom and the treasure from Tel el-Almarna (Amarna Web Sites).

Opening Hours: Saturday to Thursday 9.00am-4.00pm, Friday 9.00am-11.15am/1.30-4.00pm Admission (1997): L.E. 10.00, Students L.E. 5.00 (in 1989 it was 3 L.E.!)
Camera Permit (1997): L.E. 10.00 (flashes and tripods are not allowed).
  
The (present) museum was inaugurated on the 15th of November 1902. Therefore it will be 100 years old in  2002. To celebrate this important event a special book "The Centennial Anniversary" will be edited. 
Click here for an interesting contribution to the history of the museum.
  

Khan el-Khalili- bazaar A little bit too late we arrive in the evening at the Khan el-Khalili-bazaar. The market existed already in the 14th century and contains thousand of little and less little shops where you can buy almost anything. You find there especially spices, but also gold and silver,...
  
Day 16  Gizeh: the Pyramids - Camel riding at the Pyramids
Cairo: the Ahmad Ibn-Tulun mosque -
Gayer Anderson museum -
The Citadel and the Mohammed Ali (Alabaster) Mosque

Gizeh : the Pyramids At sunrise we're at The Pyramids... and alone. Cheops, Khefren and Mykerinos, thousand of years at the border of the desert (= the gate to the underworld) they're rising in a majestically solitude to the Gods. When you're at the feet of Cheops, one feels so insignificant.
For 2 hours we drive and walk around the pyramids, sometime taking pictures, most of the time looking in supreme amazement. In the meantime we also went to the Sphinx (who was in restoration at that time). Near the pyramid of Cheops there's a little museum, the Cheops Bark Museum, which holds the Solar Boat of Ra, discovered in 1954 as a do-it-yourself kit, because the boat existed in several segments. It's worth a visit. Also worth a visit are the several mastaba's, e.g. that of Mery-nefer Qar and Marsankh (Map of the Gizeh Area).
  • Marsankh III (or Meresankh III): was the wife of Khephren and the mother of prince Nebmakhet. The tomb is very beautiful, but is rarely visited by the tourists (wrongly!). See photo.
  • Mery-nefer Qar: judge and vizier from the sixth dynasty

Recently 2 scientists discovered that the North-South plan of the Pyramids matched the reflection of 3 stars of the Belt of Orion. If you're interested, click here.
  

The Ahmad Ibn-Tulun mosque Built in 879 it's one of the architectonic highlights of Cairo (details). As part of the legends it stands on the hill where Abraham wanted to sacrifice his son Isaac. As all the mosques in Cairo it's an oasis of tranquillity, but specially the inner court gives you that feeling. In the middle there's an ablution fountain. The mosque had many restorations but it always kept his originally character.
The Gayer Anderson museum Lies near the Ibn Tulun Mosque. Two ancient residences were restored by the English Major Anderson in 1937 and connected with each other to one museum. It includes a comprehensive collection of furniture, glassware, crystal, carpets, silks and embroidered Arab costumes. In one of the guest rooms there's still a beautiful woodcarver bay from where the harem ladies could look down without being seen (further details).
vinger_r.gif (945 bytes) The museum served as a location spot  for several movies, such as  "Ruby Cairo", an American-Japanese thriller of Graeme Clifford (1993) with Andie MacDowell and Liam Neeson, and for "The Spy Who Loved Me" (Lewis Gilbert - 1977), one of the James Bond movies with Roger Moore, Barbara Bach and Curd Jürgens.
  
The Citadel and the Mohammed Ali (Alabaster) Mosque
(Photo Gallery:
see Ibn Talun)
Meanwhile it's rather muggy. Nevertheless we decide to go further to the Citadel for visiting the Mohammed Ali Mosque, also known as the Alabaster Mosque because of the extensive use of that material. The dome in Ottoman style rest on only 4 pillars in which there hangs an enormous chandelier. Lay down on your back under this chandelier and you can take magnificent pictures. Outside you have a beautiful view on Cairo to Gizeh (further details).
The Citadel is a big tourist attraction and was once a military garrison.
  
Gizeh: camel-
riding at the
Pyramids
At 6h30 PM we're at the Pyramids where we met Atea (son of our driver Abu Basha until now) with 2 camels and a horse. The 2 camels are for us, Atea is driving a horse. We make a long trip on the Gizeh- plateau, have a lot of nice views at the desert and find the pyramids more and more impressive. Silence is our partner...
  

Day 17 - Cairo: At the Oberoi Men House Hotel

At the Oberoi
Mena House
Decided to have a day of rest. After 16 days we deserved it!
We had a romantic dinner at the swimming pool. A guitarist/singer sings "You're so wonderful tonight" a song of Eric Clapton. Believe it or not, but on every further journey they were playing that song again.
  

Day 18 - Memphis - Saqqara

Memphis
At 7h30 AM we're driving to Memphis, only a few miles south of Cairo. From 2.800 BC until the Roman period it was an important town and probably founded by the first pharaoh Menes of the 1st Dynasty. Nowadays very little remains: the enormous Temple of Ptah was destroyed by Theodosius. From that temple only a colossal statue of Ramesses II, made of crystallized limestone with a weight of about 80 tons you can see now in the small museum. Furthermore there's a Sphinx in alabaster, the largest statue in this material of the world, representing Amenophis II.
One believes there's still a lot to discover under the sand...
  
Saqqara (or
Sakkarah)
A few miles west of Memphis there's the famous necropolis of Saqqara with several pyramids, mastaba's (rectangular tomb of ancient Egyptian origin) and tombs.
Visited sights:
  • Funerary Complex of Djoser (Zoser): lies in the middle of the necropolis and is most of all known by the Step Pyramid (details) which on his own lies in the middle of the Djoser complex. This entire complex was once surrounded by an enclosure wall, that when complete, was about 549m long and 274m wide and rose to over 9.1m The wall is made of brick-size stones. The architect was Imhotep and because of his realization he was later worshipped as a god! Details Step Pyramid
  • Mastaba of Idut: Indut was king Unas' (see next) daughter. The relief's are brilliant. Well-known is a scene of hippo hunting. Several offer scenes.
  • Pyramid of Unas: king of the 5th Dynasty. The pyramid is in poor condition. We have to climb over a small metal ladder to enter a very low corridor (only 1m high) and which leads to the burial chamber. Carved into the walls you can see the earliest Egyptian funeral text, the so-called "Pyramid Texts", with a blue pigment. On the ceiling you will see five point stars.
  • Sphinx avenue: less remains from the earlier avenue but from here we start the next visits
  • Mastaba of Mereruka: he was the vizier of Teti. His tomb with 32 rooms is the largest and most beautiful of Saqqara. His wife and son were also buried here. Most of the wall paintings represents the daily life: butchers slaughtering an ox, Mereruka sitting on his bed playing the harp, swimming hippos in the Nile, etc. (see photo gallery). There's also a statue of Mereruka in the sacrificial chamber.
  • Serapeum: we hire a horse to go to the Serapeum along the former Sphinx avenue. Serapis was the mystic unification of the gods Osiris, Apis, Dionysios and Asklepios. The Serapeum was a subterranean complex where the sacred bulls of Apis were buried. The bull was thought to have been an incarnation of Ptah. The whole complex is impressive: corridors 350m long, 3m wide, 5½m high with chambers of 8m high which contain 24 sarcophaguses each one as a single block of granite that weighed between 60 and 80 tons. Impressive!
    From the Serapeum we walked along the avenue of the Philosophers, statues of the Ptolemaic period, to the Mastaba of Ti.
  • Mastaba of Ti: he was related to a royal family of the 5th Dynasty. A narrow passageway leads into the burial chamber. The tomb is very beautiful with relief's still partly in bright colours. The mastaba contains 3 chambers and a corridor which leads to 2 chapels. One is Ti's grave with brilliant relief's: Ti and his wife life-sized, scenes of wine making, peasants and musicians, a bull slaughtered for offering, Ti in a boat through the swamp, a crocodile biting a hippo, etc. Back on the road we walk (what a heat!) to the Mastaba of Ptah-hotep.
  • Mastaba of Ptah-hotep (and Akhti-hotep): Ptah-hotep was a vizier during the reign of Djedkare, 5th Dynasty. Akhti-hotep was probably his father. The mastaba has some bigger and smaller chambers with relief's still more beautiful than this of Ti's mastaba, although not all finished (interesting to see how the artists did their work because of the several stages of development). A lot of scenes: bulls, geese, hunting for gazelles, leopards and lions, a group of cranes running after a boy, even some mating animals,...

And that was our visit the big and very interesting necropolis of Saqqara.

In the afternoon we were guided by our driver to a carpet factory... and made acquaintance with children from 8 to 13 years old, working 8 hours a day for 5 E.P.! You can't believe it, when you didn't see it (see Photo Gallery Cairo).
  

Day 19 - Cairo: 2nd visit Egyptian Museum - El Muski soukh - Camel rise into the desert

2nd visit to the Egyptian Museum
  
Visiting the 1st floor: the treasure of Tutankhamun and Tanis. For an extensive description: click here (click on "Collections/Tutankhamun").
El Muski-
souhk
With a street map in the hand and under a glowing sun we go in the direction of the Ezbekiya Garden towards the El Muski-bazaar. Near the Tal Harb square we find the in earlier days, famous Groppi- teahouse (46 Abdel Khalek Sarwat Street), that days well-known for his pastries. To us it looks a little bit poor.
We walk further to the Opera square where we rest for a while in the "garden". Afterwards we walk to the
El-Muski-bazaar, which is bordered on the east to the Khan el-Khalili-bazaar (see day 15).
  
Camel ride
into the desert
About 18.30PM (Far from the madding crowd...) we have for the 2nd time a camel ride into the desert. Here we calm down!
  

Day 20 - Cairo: Al Azhar Mosque - City of Dead and the Sultan Qait Bay Mausoleum
                Old Coptic Cairo -
Horse riding in the desert / Horse dancing

Al Azhar
Mosque
(Photo Gallery:
see Ibn Tulun)
At the border of the Khan el-Khalili-bazaar (day 15) you will find one the oldest and most important university of the Islam for man and women. Besides theology and Arabic instructs are also given in technical and medical studies. You can visit the university. We were allowed in the prayer auditorium, a colonnade of 140 pillars. Children are studying the Koran and it's all given free of charges.
The more than 100 years old mosque houses the biggest collection of  Islamic manuscripts of the world. Until now only few scientists could consult the heavy protected texts. 
The Al-Azhar-mosque recently decided (May 2001) to put the whole collection onto the Internet. With this the  university wants to make a signal of openness and  tolerance  in times of increasing fundamentalism. 
The website should be finished until the end of  2002 and will be technical supported by  IBM. The prince royal of Dubai, Mohamed bin Rashed al-Maktum made a donation of 5 million dollars as financial support to the project. 
City of Dead
and the
Sultan
Qait Bay
Mausoleum
(Photo Gallery:
see Ibn Tulun)
We drive to the City of the Dead: little houses run up between the tombs of a graveyard. Sometimes people are living in the family-vault, but it's all quiet, no traffic-chaos, there's a lot of green, and it's all free!
We arrive at the complex of Sultan Qait Bay, 9 buildings. The mosque and mausoleum are the most interesting. The mosque has a beautiful dome. In the mausoleum there's the tomb of Qait Bay, a wooden holder for the Koran and 2 stones, according to the legend, Mohammed once stood on it.
Old (Coptic)
Cairo
Now we go to Old Cairo mainly inhabited by the Coptic Christians. We walk through very small alleys, decorated with streamers and Coptic crosses. We visit:
  • Abu Serga Church (St. Sergius): according to the legends it's the place where Joseph, Mary and Jesus rested at the end of their journey into Egypt. The crypt is now filled with water. The church is now restored because it's dilapidated.
  • Ben Ezra Synagogue: built on the place where Moses was found (another legend...). There are beautiful walls embellished with wood.
Horse riding
in the desert/
Horse dancing
18.30PM: for the 3rd time we go to the desert, now for horse riding. Atea and his family own their own horses! Once again we enjoy completely.
Afterwards we're invited to visit a horse-dancing party. On the sound of Arabic music, played by local musicians (see photo gallery Cairo), horses with their driver are dancing on the rhythm of that music. It's a fascinating show. We were the only western people at that time, because I don't think tourists are invited normally. In the meantime we tasted also cactuses (without the thorns!).
  

Day 21 - The Fayoum Oasis

Fayoum Oasis who isn't a oasis, because the water comes from the Nile and not from a spring! But who cares...
We start at 8.45AM for a drive about 100km through the Libyan Desert. Originally it was a big swamp with a lot of fish, all kind of water birds..and crocodiles. In Pharaonic times it was a hunting region. Since the 12th Dynasty men built dams, watering canals and locks. In the green oasis the Egyptians are cultivating cotton and all kind of vegetables and fruit.
There's a good passable road around the Fayoum. We looked at the farmers working in the fields, we saw a lot of ibises, and big, big dovecotes (pigeons in Egypt are a real delicacy. Try once "stuffed pigeons". Delicious!). It's a very good place to calm down, as we did. In a little house near an orchard we are invited for tea by Atea. Heavenly peace...why should we go back to Belgium?
  

Day 22 - Cairo: Khan el-Khalili (last shopping!) ...and farewell!

  Khan el-Khalili (last shopping!)

...and farewell!

After 3 weeks we loved Aswan, Luxor and Cairo, we loved the country, we loved most of all the people...

...and we were sure, one day we would come back...

...as we did later in 1995, 1996, 1997, .....!!!

  

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Last update: 2003-03-11