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Day 10 - Cairo |
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| Cairo |
With some sadness we're leaving Luxor by noon,
but we are convinced someday we'll be back! (..and indeed since 1995 we come back on a
regular base...). In Cairo we drive to Gizeh where we will stay for one week at the Mena House Oberoi Hotel, a beautiful remain of the British colonial period. From our room we see the impressive pyramids... We can't hardly wait to visit the pyramids. Our first contact is...in the dark, for the "Sound and Light Spectacle" at the feet of the Sphinx. We find it much better than the show in Karnak. For an good overview of what can be visited in Cairo and Gizeh go to Official Egypt Web Site. |
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Day 15 - Cairo: Egyptian Museum - Khan el-Khalili Bazar |
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| Egyptian
Museum |
Driving with Abdel Wahab Abu Basha, a driver we
met outside the hotel, through the traffic rush of Cairo is quite an experience. One who
didn't go through this chaos can't believe it! There aren't any rules...only the person
who dares, will survive. A real pell-mell of cars, donkeys, camels, carts, bicycles, and
some daredevils as we are (= pedestrians)... But in spite of all that we arrive safe and sound at the Tahrir Square where we visit the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. The museum contains the world's greatest collection of Pharaonic art and artefacts, including the treasures of the tomb of Tutankhamun. We visited the first floor: Old and Middle Kingdom and the treasure from Tel el-Almarna (Amarna Web Sites). Opening Hours: Saturday to Thursday
9.00am-4.00pm, Friday 9.00am-11.15am/1.30-4.00pm Admission (1997): L.E. 10.00, Students
L.E. 5.00 (in 1989 it was 3 L.E.!)
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| Khan el-Khalili- bazaar | A little bit too late we arrive in the evening
at the Khan el-Khalili-bazaar. The market
existed already in the 14th century and contains thousand of little and less little shops
where you can buy almost anything. You find there especially spices, but also gold and
silver,... |
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| Gizeh : the Pyramids | At sunrise we're at The
Pyramids... and alone. Cheops,
Khefren and Mykerinos,
thousand of years at the border of the desert (= the gate to the underworld) they're
rising in a majestically solitude to the Gods. When you're at the feet of Cheops, one
feels so insignificant. For 2 hours we drive and walk around the pyramids, sometime taking pictures, most of the time looking in supreme amazement. In the meantime we also went to the Sphinx (who was in restoration at that time). Near the pyramid of Cheops there's a little museum, the Cheops Bark Museum, which holds the Solar Boat of Ra, discovered in 1954 as a do-it-yourself kit, because the boat existed in several segments. It's worth a visit. Also worth a visit are the several mastaba's, e.g. that of Mery-nefer Qar and Marsankh (Map of the Gizeh Area).
Recently 2 scientists discovered that the North-South plan of the Pyramids matched the
reflection of 3 stars of the Belt of Orion. If you're interested, click here. |
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| The Ahmad Ibn-Tulun mosque | Built in 879 it's one of the architectonic highlights of Cairo (details). As part of the legends it stands on the hill where Abraham wanted to sacrifice his son Isaac. As all the mosques in Cairo it's an oasis of tranquillity, but specially the inner court gives you that feeling. In the middle there's an ablution fountain. The mosque had many restorations but it always kept his originally character. | ||||
| The Gayer Anderson museum | Lies near the Ibn Tulun Mosque. Two ancient
residences were restored by the English Major Anderson in 1937 and connected with each
other to one museum. It includes a comprehensive collection of furniture, glassware,
crystal, carpets, silks and embroidered Arab costumes. In one of the guest rooms there's
still a beautiful woodcarver bay from where the harem ladies could look down without being
seen (further
details). |
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The Citadel and
the Mohammed Ali (Alabaster) Mosque
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Meanwhile it's rather muggy. Nevertheless we
decide to go further to the Citadel for visiting the
Mohammed Ali Mosque, also known as the Alabaster Mosque because of the extensive use of
that material. The dome in Ottoman style rest on only 4 pillars in which there hangs an
enormous chandelier. Lay down on your back under this chandelier and you can take
magnificent pictures. Outside you have a beautiful view on Cairo to Gizeh (further details). The Citadel is a big tourist attraction and was once a military garrison. |
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| Gizeh: camel- riding at the Pyramids |
At 6h30 PM we're at the Pyramids where we met
Atea (son of our driver Abu Basha until now) with 2 camels and a horse. The 2 camels are
for us, Atea is driving a horse. We make a long trip on the Gizeh- plateau, have a lot of
nice views at the desert and find the pyramids more and more impressive. Silence is our
partner... |
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Day 17 - Cairo: At the Oberoi Men House Hotel |
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| At the Oberoi Mena House |
Decided to have a day of rest. After 16 days we
deserved it! We had a romantic dinner at the swimming pool. A guitarist/singer sings "You're so wonderful tonight" a song of Eric Clapton. Believe it or not, but on every further journey they were playing that song again. |
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Day 18 - Memphis - Saqqara |
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| Memphis |
At 7h30 AM we're driving to Memphis, only a few miles south of Cairo. From
2.800 BC until the Roman period it was an important town and probably founded by the first
pharaoh Menes of the 1st Dynasty. Nowadays very little remains: the enormous Temple of
Ptah was destroyed by Theodosius. From that temple only a colossal statue
of Ramesses II, made of crystallized limestone with a weight of about 80
tons you can see now in the small museum. Furthermore there's a Sphinx
in alabaster, the largest statue in this material of the world, representing Amenophis II.
One believes there's still a lot to discover under the sand... |
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| Saqqara
(or Sakkarah) |
A few miles west of Memphis there's the famous
necropolis of Saqqara with
several pyramids, mastaba's (rectangular tomb of ancient Egyptian origin) and tombs. Visited sights:
And that was our visit the big and very interesting necropolis of Saqqara. In the afternoon we were guided by our driver to a carpet
factory... and made acquaintance with children from 8 to 13 years old, working 8 hours a day
for 5 E.P.! You can't believe it, when you didn't see it (see Photo Gallery Cairo). |
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Day 19 - Cairo: 2nd visit Egyptian Museum - El Muski soukh - Camel rise into the desert |
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| 2nd visit to the
Egyptian Museum |
Visiting the 1st floor: the treasure of Tutankhamun and Tanis. For an extensive description: click here (click on "Collections/Tutankhamun"). | ||||
| El Muski- souhk |
With a street map in the hand and under a
glowing sun we go in the direction of the Ezbekiya Garden towards the El Muski-bazaar. Near the Tal Harb square we find the in earlier days, famous Groppi- teahouse (46 Abdel
Khalek Sarwat Street), that days well-known for his pastries. To us it looks a little bit
poor. We walk further to the Opera square where we rest for a while in the "garden". Afterwards we walk to the El-Muski-bazaar, which is bordered on the east to the Khan el-Khalili-bazaar (see day 15). |
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| Camel ride into the desert |
About 18.30PM (Far from the madding crowd...) we
have for the 2nd time a camel ride into the desert. Here we calm down! |
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Day 20 - Cairo:
Al Azhar Mosque - City of Dead
and the
Sultan
Qait Bay Mausoleum |
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| Al Azhar Mosque
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At the border of the Khan el-Khalili-bazaar (day
15) you will find one the oldest and most important university of the Islam for man and
women. Besides theology and Arabic instructs are also given in technical and medical
studies. You can visit the university. We were allowed in the prayer auditorium, a
colonnade of 140 pillars. Children are studying the Koran and it's all given free of
charges.
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| City of Dead and the Sultan Qait Bay Mausoleum
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We drive to the City
of the Dead: little houses run up between the tombs of a graveyard.
Sometimes people are living in the family-vault, but it's all quiet, no traffic-chaos,
there's a lot of green, and it's all free! We arrive at the complex of Sultan Qait Bay, 9 buildings. The mosque and mausoleum are the most interesting. The mosque has a beautiful dome. In the mausoleum there's the tomb of Qait Bay, a wooden holder for the Koran and 2 stones, according to the legend, Mohammed once stood on it. |
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| Old
(Coptic) Cairo |
Now we go to Old
Cairo mainly inhabited by the Coptic Christians. We
walk through very small alleys, decorated with streamers and Coptic crosses. We visit:
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| Horse
riding in the desert/ Horse dancing |
18.30PM: for the 3rd time we go to the desert,
now for horse riding. Atea and his family own their own horses! Once again we enjoy
completely. Afterwards we're invited to visit a horse-dancing party. On the sound of Arabic music, played by local musicians (see photo gallery Cairo), horses with their driver are dancing on the rhythm of that music. It's a fascinating show. We were the only western people at that time, because I don't think tourists are invited normally. In the meantime we tasted also cactuses (without the thorns!). |
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Day 21 - The Fayoum Oasis |
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| Fayoum Oasis | who isn't a oasis, because the water comes from
the Nile and not from a spring! But who cares... We start at 8.45AM for a drive about 100km through the Libyan Desert. Originally it was a big swamp with a lot of fish, all kind of water birds..and crocodiles. In Pharaonic times it was a hunting region. Since the 12th Dynasty men built dams, watering canals and locks. In the green oasis the Egyptians are cultivating cotton and all kind of vegetables and fruit. There's a good passable road around the Fayoum. We looked at the farmers working in the fields, we saw a lot of ibises, and big, big dovecotes (pigeons in Egypt are a real delicacy. Try once "stuffed pigeons". Delicious!). It's a very good place to calm down, as we did. In a little house near an orchard we are invited for tea by Atea. Heavenly peace...why should we go back to Belgium? |
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Day 22 - Cairo: Khan el-Khalili (last shopping!) ...and farewell! |
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| Khan el-Khalili (last
shopping!) ...and farewell! |
After 3 weeks we loved Aswan, Luxor and
Cairo, we loved the country, we loved most of all the people... ...and we were sure, one day we would come back... ...as we did later in 1995, 1996, 1997, .....!!! |
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Last update: 2003-03-11 |